Deck Maintenance Byron Bay - What Actually Works in Salt Air

Right, so you've got a timber deck in Byron Bay. And it's probably grey, splintery, or rotting in places. I restore decks around Byron every month - Wategos, Belongil, Suffolk Park, down to Broken Head. Same problems everywhere.

The thing is - standard deck maintenance advice doesn't work here. Byron's not Sydney. You're 200m from the ocean in constant salt air. That bunnings deck oil you bought? Lasts about 6 months before it's gone.

Here's what actually works for coastal deck maintenance.

Why Byron Bay Kills Decks So Fast

I talk to people who moved from Brisbane or Melbourne and they're confused why their deck looks 10 years old after 2 years. Here's what's happening:

Salt air + UV + humidity = deck death.

Salt draws moisture into the timber. Timber swells and shrinks. Grain lifts, splinters appear, coating cracks. Then UV just destroys whatever protection you had left. Add in Byron's humidity keeping everything damp longer, and fungus starts growing between the boards.

Beachfront decks (anything within 500m of the ocean - so basically all of Belongil, Suffolk Park beachside, Wategos, Clarkes Beach properties) cop it worst. But even hinterland-side Byron like St Helena, Skinners Shoot - you're still getting that salt air. Wind brings it inland every day.

The Right Timber Matters (If You're Building New)

If you're building a new deck in Byron Bay, don't cheap out on timber. Wrong species = you'll be replacing boards in 3 years.

What works in Byron:

• Spotted Gum H4 treated: Best value. Lasts 15-20 years if maintained. Contact for quote-60/sqm
• Ironbark: Lasts forever. Hard as hell to work with. Contact for quote-85/sqm
• Merbau: Decent. Oils well. 12-15 year life coastal. Contact for quote-70/sqm
• Blackbutt H4: Good compromise. Lighter color. 15+ years. Contact for quote-65/sqm

Avoid in coastal Byron: Pine (even treated pine - rots fast), non-treated hardwood (must be H4 rated minimum for coastal), composite in full sun (expands/contracts heaps in Byron's heat).

H4 treatment = Heavy Duty. That's the rating for "in ground" or "coastal." Anything less than H4 won't last. Hardware stores will sell you H3 - don't bother in Byron.

Deck Maintenance Schedule That Actually Works

Most people oil their deck once every 2-3 years. Then wonder why it looks terrible. In Byron Bay? You need to be on it.

Every 6 months (twice yearly):

• Sweep/blow off leaves and debris
• Check for loose boards
• Check all screws/nails - replace if rusting
• Hose down to remove salt buildup

Every 12 months (yearly):

• Proper clean (deck cleaner or oxalic acid wash)
• Sand any rough spots
• Re-oil or re-coat
• Check structure underneath - joists, bearers, posts
• Replace any spongy boards immediately

Yeah it's more work than inland. But it's cheaper than replacing your whole deck every 8 years.

What Oil/Coating to Actually Use

This is where everyone gets it wrong. You need marine-grade or coastal-rated products. Standard Bunnings deck oil won't cut it.

What I use on Byron Bay decks:

Feast Watson Marine Wood Oil: Designed for boats. Handles salt water. Lasts 12-18 months in coastal conditions. About Contact for quote for 4L (covers 20-25sqm). Apply 2 coats.

Cutek Extreme CD50: Proper coastal deck oil. Penetrates deep, doesn't sit on surface to peel. Lasts 18-24 months beachfront. Contact for quote for 4L. Worth it.

Intergrain UltraPrep: Good mid-range option. Contact for quote for 4L. Lasts about 12 months. Need to reapply more often but decent protection.

Don't use: Standard deck stains (peel off in Byron's sun within 6 months), paint (traps moisture underneath, boards rot), cheap deck oils from hardware stores (gone in 4 months).

How to Actually Maintain Your Byron Deck

Alright, here's the proper process. Takes a weekend but your deck will last years longer.

Step 1: Clean it properly

Sweep off everything. Then use a deck cleaner - I use Cabot's Deck Clean or just mix oxalic acid powder (Bunnings, Contact for quote). Scrub with a stiff broom. Hose off thoroughly. This removes grey oxidized wood, salt buildup, mildew.

Don't use a pressure washer on full blast - it fuzzes up the timber grain. Low pressure (under 1000psi) is okay if you're careful.

Step 2: Let it dry completely

Wait 3-4 dry days. Timber needs to be bone dry before oiling. In Byron's humidity this takes longer than you think. Touch test - if the boards feel cool/damp, they're not ready.

Step 3: Sand rough spots

Any splinters, rough patches - sand them smooth. 80 grit for rough stuff, 120 grit for finish. Don't sand the whole deck unless it's really bad - just problem areas.

Step 4: Oil it

Apply your coastal deck oil with a brush or lambswool applicator. Work in sections. Two coats - let first coat soak in (30-60 mins), then second coat.

Do this on a mild day - not full blazing sun (oil dries too fast on surface), not cold/humid (won't penetrate properly). Early morning or late afternoon is best.

Step 5: Wipe off excess

After 20-30 minutes, wipe off any pooling oil with rags. Otherwise it goes sticky and attracts dirt.

The Salt Problem

Here's something most people don't know: Salt buildup on your deck actively pulls moisture from the air.

Ever notice your deck boards feel damp even on dry days? That's salt being hygroscopic - it attracts water. Keeps your timber wet longer. Fungus loves it, rot loves it.

Solution: Hose your deck monthly. Seriously. Just hose it down, let the salt wash off. This one thing adds years to your deck life in Byron Bay.

Beachfront properties (Belongil especially) - I'd hose weekly if you can be bothered. The amount of salt that settles on decks 200m from the ocean is mental.

Fixable vs Replace Territory

When boards go soft/spongy, they're rotting from the inside. No amount of oiling saves them - they need replacing.

Replace if:

• Board feels spongy when you walk on it
• You can push your thumbnail into the wood easily
• Cracks are wider than 5mm
• Board is cupping/warping more than 10mm
• Any white fungus/rot visible

Fixable:

• Surface splinters - sand smooth
• Grey weathering - clean and oil
• Minor cracks under 5mm - oil penetrates and stabilizes
• Loose boards - reattach with coastal screws

Cost to replace boards in Byron: Contact for quote-50 per square meter including labor. Cheaper to replace 3-4 bad boards now than the whole deck in 2 years.

Screws vs Nails for Coastal Decks

If your deck's nailed, those nails are probably rusting and staining the timber. Happens on every Byron deck over 5 years old.

When you replace boards or re-fix loose ones: Use 316 marine stainless steel screws. Not 304 stainless (still rusts in salt air), not galvanized (rusts within 3 years beachside), not regular stainless (also rusts).

316 screws cost more - about Contact for quote for 500 vs Contact for quote for galvanized. But they don't rust. Ever. I've pulled 316 screws out of Wategos decks that are 15 years old - still perfect.

Deck Structure Underneath

Everyone focuses on the deck boards. But the structure underneath (joists, bearers, posts) rots first because it's in the shade staying damp.

Once a year, get under your deck with a torch. Check:

• Joist ends where they sit on bearers - common rot spot
• Any timber touching the ground - should be H5 rated minimum
• Bearer-to-post connections - watch for white fungus
• All metal brackets/hangers - replace if rusted

If joists are rotting, your deck can collapse. I've seen it in Byron - usually on beachfront properties where structure wasn't treated properly and salt got to it.

Rotten structure: Contact for quote-8,000 to fix depending on size. Maintained structure: lasts 20+ years.

Byron Bay Specific Deck Problems

Belongil/beach decks: Cop the most salt. Need hosing weekly, oiling every 12 months minimum. Board life 10-12 years even with good maintenance.

Suffolk Park/Broken Head: High UV exposure kills oil faster. Re-oil every 12-15 months. Watch for boards cupping/warping from heat cycles.

Byron town/Arts & Industry: Less salt than beachfront but still coastal. Standard 12-month maintenance schedule works.

Hinterland (Bangalow Road, Ewingsdale): More mold/mildew problems from shade and humidity. Deck cleaner with mildicide essential. Can stretch oiling to 18 months if deck's in good shape.

Quick Wins for Deck Life

Do these and your deck lasts way longer:

• Hose monthly to remove salt
• Sweep leaves immediately - trap moisture and rot boards
• Keep pot plants on feet/stands - not directly on deck
• Fix one bad board now rather than 5 boards later
• Use only 316 stainless fixings
• Oil yearly, not "when it looks bad"
• Trim back plants touching deck - they hold moisture

Look, maintaining a timber deck in Byron Bay is work. But it's either yearly maintenance or deck replacement every 10 years. First option's way cheaper.

The decks I see that last 20+ years? They're all maintained yearly with proper coastal products. The ones falling apart after 5 years? Standard hardware store oil applied once when they moved in, then ignored.

Your choice really.